After a busy day in Pisa, we took the train to Florence. The journey, which only cost a few pounds, is a one hour hop on one of Italy's lovely modern trains. Florence's train station is right in the centre and was, thankfully, only a ten minute walk from our AirBnB.
We found a beautiful apartment right outside the Mercato Centrale. The apartment had white sheets, soft fabrics, polished concrete floors and even a beautiful bath with a window looking out at floors upon floors teetering apartments in ancient buildings.
Our first port of call, as always, was food. We left our bags at the station and headed straight to I Gelati del Bondi on Via Nazionale, right outside the train station. This tiny little place is run by Tulio, now one of my favourite guys (and not just for his magic gelato-making skills). I'd seen plenty of people chatting about his gelato online so of course this had to be spot number one. I went for Earl Gray and Charcoal flavour, while Sam had Chocolate and Pistachio. Every single scoop was magnificent - I won't even try to describe, I won't do them justice. But suffice to say I came away with the recipe for Earl Gray gelato, and none of the talent to re-create it.
We then had a bit of time to kill before we could check into our apartment so we decided to have a short wander around. We didn't intend to do any sightseeing until we were checked in, but Florence isn't a city that allows that. Every corner you turn will present you with something magnificent.
After staring at the Duomo, we headed down to Palazzo Vecchio to buy our Firenze Cards. For around €70 this card gives you entry to pretty much every tourist spot in Florence, and more. If you're there for a few days, I'd really recommend doing it. We went to about 13 different attractions during our four/five days in Florence, some only for an hour or so because we'd already paid for it. I think we calculated that we'd used over €150 worth of entry fees, so it was very much worth the money for us.
Directly behind Palazzo Vecchio is Gucci Garden. It had only recently opened when we visited so I just about fainted with excitement when I spotted it. So of course we went in, and of course it was cripplingly expensive and I left empty handed and wishing I had a few spare hundred pounds to buy something beautiful.
That evening we crossed the river and headed to Trattoria Giovanni for pasta, Tuscan boar and yet more wine then strolled back to our apartment across the Ponte Santa Trinita to spend yet more time staring at the Ponte Vecchio - you just can't resist.
Firenze Cards in hand, we were up early the next morning with a busy schedule ahead (I'm a bully on holiday when there's sights to see, 6am alarms and walking breakfasts). First on the list, of course, was a trip to the Accademia to see Michelangelo's David. There's no escaping Big Davie in Florence so better to get it done with.
I remember on childhood visits to Florence I'd be sick of the sight of David within days - posters, postcards, billboards, he was everywhere. But finally, I was able to sit and appreciate the work for what it is. I won't pretend I didn't spend a large amount of time admiring his peachy buttocks.
Then it was on to Basilica di San Lorenzo, one of the most unassuming exteriors but with such beauty inside, and the Laurentian Library, where I came across my first group of fellow Welsh people. Tipsy, loud and not following the very strict instruction to not walk on the preserved floor. Nice one, guys.
We then headed straight to the Medici Chapels, by far the most staggering thing we saw. There is no possible way to describe the vast size of this space. The caskets that line the room, each built for one of the Medici 'princes', are dwarfed by the enormous ceiling. Every inch of surface is covered in precious marble and stone. We spent a lot of time staring at the ceiling in here.
The second of the two chapels is rather less grand. I can't even find any photos we took. But there's a marvellous secret hidden in here - behind an unassuming door is a passageway to an underground cave where Michelangelo, when hiding from the Medici family, drew sketches on the walls. If you hadn't watched too many Medici documentaries before your visit (like I very much did), you would have no idea. Apparently, there are plans to open the underground room up to visitors by 2020.
We then took ourselves off to Palazzo Strozzi, to witness the enormous slide. We didn't take a ride, though I rather wish I did. Visitors were handed a small plant to carry on the trip down, which would then be analysed to see if the emotions of the carrier impacted the plant - so keep your eyes peeled for the result of that one...
There was an exhibition on at the Palazzo about the political history of Italy as represented through art. It was interesting. And long.
After another wander along the river, and more photos, we headed to the Mercato Centrale for dinner. The bottom floor of the Mercato is just like any other market, with plenty of fresh produce and treats to take home. The second floor is a little different. There are hundreds of numbered tables in the middle of the huge space, with independent food stands around all four sides. We took it in turns to wander off to pick up different bits of food and bring them back to our table. We had pizza, pasta, dumplings, gelato and lots of other bits. It wasn't the cheapest food in Florence, but it was delicious, easy and, most importantly, directly opposite our apartment.
Follow the rest of the trip with part 2.
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